本文由W&W專業腕表測評網站出品
發條魚原創翻譯
At this year’s Baselworld, Tudor unveiled another addition to their always growing Heritage Black Bay series. The new Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel is a largely cosmetic update to the range with a stainless steel bezel insert as well as a polarizing date function on an otherwise familiar looking dial. We recently had the opportunity to go hands on with the new Black Bay Steel and came away impressed with the tasteful aesthetics,if a little underwhelmed at the low level of actual novelty.
在今年的巴塞爾展會上， 帝舵經典名表啟承碧灣潛水表全新推出全鋼表款，
Rolex's sister brand Tudor has enjoyed a well-deserved high level of industry attention in recent years, owing mostly to their vintage-inspired releases and their recent introduction of manufacture movements like the silicon hairspring equipped MT5602. One of Tudor’s most successful collections, which is exemplary of their current design sense is the Tudor Black Bay, a diver’s watch which tips its hat to Tudor’s own historical dive watches.
帝舵算是勞力士的兄弟品牌， 近年來受到業界高度關注， 主要得益於其復古風格系列時計以及最近新推出的自產機芯比如配備矽遊絲的MT5602。
Since the introduction of the ETA-powered Black Bay in 2011, the series has been updated and added to each year, most prominently with the addition of the Tudor Manufacture 5602 movement a couple of years ago. Other than that milestone, the Black Bay updates have been largely in material, like the Black Bay Bronze we covered here or the Black Bay S&G we covered here, or in color scheme, like the Black Bay Dark we covered here. Tudor’s recent Black Bay Steel seeks to even further round out the collection, which already seemingly offers something for everyone.
2011年， 搭載ETA機芯的啟承碧灣首度問世， 從那以後這一系列表款每年都會進行改造升級， 幾年前啟承碧灣系列配備帝舵自主研發製作的5602機芯閃亮登場。 除了這個里程碑之外， 碧灣的升級改造主要還是在材質上， 比如我們之前測評過的碧灣青銅表款和碧灣黃金鋼表款；有的改造是在顏色方面， 比如我們之前也測評過的碧灣黑鋼表款。
The new Black Bay Steel’s dial remains similar to its forebears. Steel rimmed Snowflake hands generously filled with Super-LumiNova still preside over a straightforward Submariner-esque dial. Markedly different here is the aforementioned change in dial real estate at the 3 o’clock marker from a lumed hour marker on previous models to a date window on the new Black Bay Steel. This was a bit of a departure because when Tudor originally released the red-bezeled Black Bay in 2011, watch nerds rejoiced over the clean look of the dial, which was provided in no small part by the lack of a date function with its obtrusive window.
全新精鋼碧灣的錶盤與前作無太多差異。 不銹鋼雪花型指針上覆蓋大面積夜光材料， 典型潛水表式錶盤。 做了明顯改變的地方是前面提到的三點鐘位置的設計， 從之前條形夜光刻度變成了日期視窗。 這似乎有點離譜， 因為當2011年碧灣發佈了紅色碧灣表款時， 表迷們很喜歡這種簡潔的錶盤， 在這枚手錶錶盤上沒有提供日期顯示視窗。
The date window on the Black Bay Steel is rectangular and isn't really too obstructive or distracting, which can partly be credited to the fact that there isn't a cyclops lens over it. In fact, as you’ll notice in some of the more distant photographs, the date window’s very presence fades when viewed from only a few feet away. As you’d imagine, the Tudor signature and shield sit at 12 o’clock. Dial text at 6 o’clock is also slightly different, with “200m : 660ft” printed in red above “Chronometer Officially Certified” in white speaking to the impressive MT5612 caliber oscillating within.
腕表上的日期視窗為矩形，並沒有很顯眼或者干擾讀時，可能要歸功於日期視窗上面沒有設置放大鏡。實際上站的稍微遠一點，日期窗口基本就不可見了。如你所想，帝舵的logo和標誌性盾牌位於12點位置， 錶盤6點鐘位置的文字也有所不同，用紅色字體寫著“200米：660英尺”，白色字體寫著“天文臺官方認證”。
Tudor began producing their own calibers in house in 2015, initially supplying them in their North Flag sport watch and in Pelagos diver’s watches. Since then, we’ve seen the steady introduction of manufacture calibers throughout Tudor’s lineup which seems to imply the position in the market Tudor is after. The new Tudor Black Bay Steel has the same MT5612 as Tudor’s North Flag and Pelagos. So, although it isn’t a brand new caliber, it is still a pretty cool movement with 70 hours of power reserve, a somewhat standard 28,800 bph operating speed, and a silicone hairspring in a price point where a totally in house movement is rare.
帝舵於2015年開始自產機芯，最初在北旗體育表和Pelagos潛水夫手錶中供應。 從那時起，我們就能看到了帝舵的機芯產品線穩步推出，這些產品線覆蓋帝舵不同市場定位。 這款精鋼碧灣同樣搭載機芯MT5612，擁有70小時的動力儲備，標準的28,800機芯頻率，由慣性微調矽遊絲擺輪調節，並以橫夾板固定，令機芯功能更為可靠。
Protecting all this from the elements and presumably water (this theoretically being a diver’s watch) is the same 41mm, 200m water resistant, stainless steel case, featuring alternating brushed and polished surfaces that Black Bay enthusiasts know too well. Also carried over from previous versions are the anti-reflective, domed sapphire crystal and the Tudor rose engraved crown. Different here is the bezel insert which is made of steel as opposed to the aluminum present on previous Black Bay models. There is even an inverted red triangle at the sixty/zero mark on the bezel throwing back to the earliest Rolex and Tudor Subs and adding a vintage feel which is further complimented by the riveted-style bracelet.
在深水處保護好機芯零件（在理論上是潛水夫應該具有的）的同樣是41毫米表徑，200米防水，不銹鋼錶殼，圓紋磨砂飾面，這些喜歡碧灣系列的表友都已經十分瞭解了。傳承前作經典設計的還有防反射的圓拱形藍寶石水晶表鏡和雕刻帝舵小紅花標誌的表冠。創新之處就在於磨砂剛字圈，之前手錶表圈是由鋁製成的。表圈上的60分/0刻度處有一個紅色倒三角形，這個設計可以回溯到早期勞力士和帝舵的表款，增加了鉚釘式的復古感。
There are a few strap options for the Black Bay Steel. Tudor's riveted oyster style bracelet, which is used on several other but not all Black Bay models is a standout. In this case, the riveted bracelet perfectly compliments the tool watch style the Black Bay Steel seems to be going for. As a note, Tudor’s execution of a modern “riveted style” bracelet is among the best out there, combining modern functionality with screw bars and modern adjustability for the classic look of Submariners from years past. In another move to bolster the military feel, a canvas NATO style strap in olive green is included with the Black Bay Steel whether you opt for the stainless steel bracelet model or the also available black leather strap version.
精鋼碧灣還提供不同的錶帶，帝舵經典的鋼摺扣黑色仿古皮帶，在其他幾個但不是所有的碧灣精鋼表款上使用。還有一種帝舵從品牌上世紀五六十年代的摺扣鉚接錶帶中汲取靈感設計出來的鉚接錶帶。值得一提的是，鉚接錶帶是帝舵的代表作，錶帶兩側鏈節以鉚釘頭連接，結構呈階梯形，這些設計特色聞名於世。啟承碧灣精鋼型表款的錶帶融入上述的美學特色，另一方面採用實心鏈節，將現代製造工藝融合其中。還有一款錶帶自帶軍表氣質，那就是橄欖綠的帆布北約式錶帶。無論你選擇鉚接錶帶還是黑色皮革錶帶版本，Black Bay Steel都包含橄欖綠的帆布北約式錶帶。
Viewed together, the Black Bay Steel is yet another nice looking addition to the Black Bay series. Although it’s hard to believe there needed to be yet another Black Bay, the subtle change in bezel insert material and addition of the date function may grab a few enthusiasts who are currently precariously perched on the Tudor purchasing fence. Tudor’s latest Black Bay may end up serving alongside the Pelagos in a little bit more of a tool watch niche than its predecessors, which seemed to be more interested in style than utility with their colored bezels and more symmetrical dials.
綜上來看，碧灣精鋼型是碧灣系列中非常不錯的表款。雖然很難相信自己竟然還想入一款碧灣精鋼，不過表圈材質材料的微妙變化以及增加的日期功能可能會吸引一些還在眼巴巴盯著帝舵購物網站準備入手碧灣的表迷。帝舵這款碧灣精鋼型表款可能最終會像領潛型一樣，比起前作來說，它更像是一種功能性腕表，以前的帝舵潛水表似乎對有設計感的表框和對稱的錶盤更感興趣。
Although nothing here (other than the stainless steel insert) is actually all that brand new, Tudor have yet again proven their ability to produce solid offerings among their own myriad of watches such that there is something for everyone’s own individual taste.
儘管這枚腕表除了不銹鋼表圈以外沒有什麼全新的設計，但是帝舵再次證明了他們有實力創新生產符合每位元顧客喜好的產品，在無數手錶生產中做出微小的改變就是難得的創新。（注：腕表型號：79730）
文中圖片來源於網路
The date window on the Black Bay Steel is rectangular and isn't really too obstructive or distracting, which can partly be credited to the fact that there isn't a cyclops lens over it. In fact, as you’ll notice in some of the more distant photographs, the date window’s very presence fades when viewed from only a few feet away. As you’d imagine, the Tudor signature and shield sit at 12 o’clock. Dial text at 6 o’clock is also slightly different, with “200m : 660ft” printed in red above “Chronometer Officially Certified” in white speaking to the impressive MT5612 caliber oscillating within.
腕表上的日期視窗為矩形，並沒有很顯眼或者干擾讀時，可能要歸功於日期視窗上面沒有設置放大鏡。實際上站的稍微遠一點，日期窗口基本就不可見了。如你所想，帝舵的logo和標誌性盾牌位於12點位置， 錶盤6點鐘位置的文字也有所不同，用紅色字體寫著“200米：660英尺”，白色字體寫著“天文臺官方認證”。
Tudor began producing their own calibers in house in 2015, initially supplying them in their North Flag sport watch and in Pelagos diver’s watches. Since then, we’ve seen the steady introduction of manufacture calibers throughout Tudor’s lineup which seems to imply the position in the market Tudor is after. The new Tudor Black Bay Steel has the same MT5612 as Tudor’s North Flag and Pelagos. So, although it isn’t a brand new caliber, it is still a pretty cool movement with 70 hours of power reserve, a somewhat standard 28,800 bph operating speed, and a silicone hairspring in a price point where a totally in house movement is rare.
帝舵於2015年開始自產機芯，最初在北旗體育表和Pelagos潛水夫手錶中供應。 從那時起，我們就能看到了帝舵的機芯產品線穩步推出，這些產品線覆蓋帝舵不同市場定位。 這款精鋼碧灣同樣搭載機芯MT5612，擁有70小時的動力儲備，標準的28,800機芯頻率，由慣性微調矽遊絲擺輪調節，並以橫夾板固定，令機芯功能更為可靠。
Protecting all this from the elements and presumably water (this theoretically being a diver’s watch) is the same 41mm, 200m water resistant, stainless steel case, featuring alternating brushed and polished surfaces that Black Bay enthusiasts know too well. Also carried over from previous versions are the anti-reflective, domed sapphire crystal and the Tudor rose engraved crown. Different here is the bezel insert which is made of steel as opposed to the aluminum present on previous Black Bay models. There is even an inverted red triangle at the sixty/zero mark on the bezel throwing back to the earliest Rolex and Tudor Subs and adding a vintage feel which is further complimented by the riveted-style bracelet.
在深水處保護好機芯零件（在理論上是潛水夫應該具有的）的同樣是41毫米表徑，200米防水，不銹鋼錶殼，圓紋磨砂飾面，這些喜歡碧灣系列的表友都已經十分瞭解了。傳承前作經典設計的還有防反射的圓拱形藍寶石水晶表鏡和雕刻帝舵小紅花標誌的表冠。創新之處就在於磨砂剛字圈，之前手錶表圈是由鋁製成的。表圈上的60分/0刻度處有一個紅色倒三角形，這個設計可以回溯到早期勞力士和帝舵的表款，增加了鉚釘式的復古感。
There are a few strap options for the Black Bay Steel. Tudor's riveted oyster style bracelet, which is used on several other but not all Black Bay models is a standout. In this case, the riveted bracelet perfectly compliments the tool watch style the Black Bay Steel seems to be going for. As a note, Tudor’s execution of a modern “riveted style” bracelet is among the best out there, combining modern functionality with screw bars and modern adjustability for the classic look of Submariners from years past. In another move to bolster the military feel, a canvas NATO style strap in olive green is included with the Black Bay Steel whether you opt for the stainless steel bracelet model or the also available black leather strap version.
精鋼碧灣還提供不同的錶帶，帝舵經典的鋼摺扣黑色仿古皮帶，在其他幾個但不是所有的碧灣精鋼表款上使用。還有一種帝舵從品牌上世紀五六十年代的摺扣鉚接錶帶中汲取靈感設計出來的鉚接錶帶。值得一提的是，鉚接錶帶是帝舵的代表作，錶帶兩側鏈節以鉚釘頭連接，結構呈階梯形，這些設計特色聞名於世。啟承碧灣精鋼型表款的錶帶融入上述的美學特色，另一方面採用實心鏈節，將現代製造工藝融合其中。還有一款錶帶自帶軍表氣質，那就是橄欖綠的帆布北約式錶帶。無論你選擇鉚接錶帶還是黑色皮革錶帶版本，Black Bay Steel都包含橄欖綠的帆布北約式錶帶。
Viewed together, the Black Bay Steel is yet another nice looking addition to the Black Bay series. Although it’s hard to believe there needed to be yet another Black Bay, the subtle change in bezel insert material and addition of the date function may grab a few enthusiasts who are currently precariously perched on the Tudor purchasing fence. Tudor’s latest Black Bay may end up serving alongside the Pelagos in a little bit more of a tool watch niche than its predecessors, which seemed to be more interested in style than utility with their colored bezels and more symmetrical dials.
綜上來看，碧灣精鋼型是碧灣系列中非常不錯的表款。雖然很難相信自己竟然還想入一款碧灣精鋼，不過表圈材質材料的微妙變化以及增加的日期功能可能會吸引一些還在眼巴巴盯著帝舵購物網站準備入手碧灣的表迷。帝舵這款碧灣精鋼型表款可能最終會像領潛型一樣，比起前作來說，它更像是一種功能性腕表，以前的帝舵潛水表似乎對有設計感的表框和對稱的錶盤更感興趣。
Although nothing here (other than the stainless steel insert) is actually all that brand new, Tudor have yet again proven their ability to produce solid offerings among their own myriad of watches such that there is something for everyone’s own individual taste.
儘管這枚腕表除了不銹鋼表圈以外沒有什麼全新的設計，但是帝舵再次證明了他們有實力創新生產符合每位元顧客喜好的產品，在無數手錶生產中做出微小的改變就是難得的創新。（注：腕表型號：79730）
文中圖片來源於網路