Wynns, John Riddoch Cabernet 1982: A legend because…
John Riddoch was a land owner and politician who owned 28,500 hectares across Australia. He first planted vines in Coonawarra in the 1890s, and Wynns’ top Cabernet Sauvignon pays homage to him. Today Wynns owns 900ha of vines (about 20% of the region), so winemakers can select the very finest fruit for the John Riddoch bottling. Wynns is now owned by global giant Treasury Wine Estates, but quality has long been consistent. This 1982 was the first John Riddoch bottling.
醞思酒莊 約翰·羅迪赤霞珠1982， 緣起……
約翰·羅迪是一個擁有橫跨澳大利亞、面積達28500公頃的土地擁有者和政治家。 19世紀90年代， 他首先在庫那瓦勒種植葡萄， 而醞思酒莊的頂級赤霞珠就是他得到的回報。 今天， 醞思酒莊擁有900公頃葡萄（約占該地區的20％）， 因此釀酒師可以為約翰·羅迪瓶裝酒挑選最好的果實。 醞思酒莊現在由全球巨頭富邑葡萄酒集團擁有， 其品質始終如一。 1982年份是約翰·羅迪的第一個瓶裝酒。
The Facts
Bottles produced 24,000 bottles
Composition 100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Yield about 45hl/ha
Alcohol 12.9% on label (but in fact 13.4%)
Release price AUS$13.50 per bottle
Price today A$960 per bottle
數據
瓶裝量：24,000瓶
成分：100％赤霞珠
均產：45hl / ha
酒精度：標籤12.9％（實際上是13.4％）
發行價：13.50澳元/每瓶
現價每瓶960美元
Looking back
The 1970s had not been an outstanding period for Wynns, mainly because new plantings were just coming on stream and so those vines were very young. There was a shortage of labour in Coonawarra, which meant that grapes were not always picked at optimal ripeness. John Wade, who made the 1982 John Riddoch, joined Wynns as winemaker in 1978. At the time there was no electricity in the winery, hence no refrigeration, and so fermentations could veer out of control as temperatures mounted. Nor was there a proper lab where the winemaking team could perform detailed analyses. However, a visit to Bordeaux in 1981 inspired Wade to invest in better barrels, and he was able to gain the support of Wynns general manager Robin Moody. This investment allowed Wade to use more new oak to age the best wines
回顧
對醞思酒莊來說，
The vintage
1982 enjoyed a mild growing season, and was an exceptional vintage in Coonawarra, where the Cabernet Sauvignon in particular was of superlative quality. The autumn was steadily warm, but with lower temperatures than would be common in more recent times.
年份
1982年享有一個溫和的生長季， 也是庫那瓦勒一個特別優異的年份， 赤霞珠品質尤其出色。
The terroir
Coonawarra is famously flat; it makes the Médoc look hilly. Yet its special character lies just underground in the form of the famed terra rossa soil. Its red hue derives from the soil’s iron content, but equally important is the permeable limestone subsoil that retains moisture and sustains the vines even during very dry periods. Only central Coonawarra (a strip 1km wide and 15km long), has terra rossa soil, and many vineyards are planted on heavier clay and sand. The climate is cooler than Barossa, resulting in Cabernet of great structure and ageing potential. The grapes for this wine were sourced from two terra rossa sites: Johnson Vineyard, planted in 1954, and Majella Vineyard, which had fairly young vines. The fruit for this wine would have been machine-harvested – not the case today.
風土
庫那瓦勒以平坦著稱， 相對來說梅多克就是丘陵地貌。 而它的特色就在於地下是著名的羅薩土質。 它的紅色來源於土壤的含鐵成分， 同樣重要的是滲透性的石灰石底土， 即使在非常乾燥的時期也能使葡萄藤保持水分。 只有庫那瓦勒中央地帶（寬1公里， 長15公里的帶狀區塊）有羅薩土質土壤， 許多葡萄園葡萄是種在重粘土和沙土上。 氣候比巴羅莎涼爽， 賦予赤霞珠良好的結構和陳釀潛力。 這款葡萄酒的葡萄來源於兩個羅薩土地塊：種植於1954年的詹森葡萄園（Johnson Vineyard）， 以及葡萄藤非常年輕的馬傑拉葡萄園（Majella Vineyard）。 跟現在情況不同， 這種葡萄酒所用果實是機器收割。
The wine
Only 1% of the Wynns vineyards are used to source John Riddoch. The wines were fermented for about 10 days and about 3g of acidity added, probably at fermentation. Wade would have aimed to keep the temperature no higher than 28°C, but it wasn’t always possible without temperature control. The wine stayed in tank for malolactic fermentation, and then transferred to one-year-old barrels for one year, followed by a further year in new oak. Sue Hodder, Wynns’ chief winemaker today, reflects: ‘In the late-1970s people started talking about New World wines, and Coonawarra winemakers recall endless discussions about what our regional style should be. The 1982 John Riddoch has riper flavours and aromas than many Cabernets of that era.’
葡萄酒
只有1%的醞思酒莊葡萄被用來製作約翰·羅迪。 葡萄酒發酵約10天， 加入約3克的酸度， 可能是正在發酵的。 韋德的目標是保持溫度不高於28°C， 但由於沒有溫度控制， 這不是總能做到。 葡萄酒留在罐內進行蘋果乳酸發酵， 然後轉移到一年齡的桶中熟化一年， 然後在新橡木桶中再熟化一年。 現醞思酒莊首席釀酒師蘇·霍德（Sue Hodder）反映：“在二十世紀七十年代後期， 人們開始談論新世界的葡萄酒， 庫那瓦勒釀酒商回想起關於我們的區域風格何去何從的無休止的討論。 1982年的約翰·羅迪比那個時代的眾多赤霞珠有更成熟的口味和香味。
The reaction
In late 2013, in the company of Sue Hodder, I tasted a bottle long stored in the Wynns cellars. The colour was deep, the blackcurrant nose lush and generous. Medium-bodied on the palate, fine acidity gave intensity and freshness. The tannins were fine-grained and the finish had charm, purity and persistence.
反應
2013年末， 在蘇·霍德（Sue Hodder）的陪同下， 我品嘗了一瓶儲存在醞思酒窖（Wynns cellars）很久的酒。 顏色深沉， 黑醋栗風味濃郁芬芳。
譯自——