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發條魚原創翻譯
To my eyes, the Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 is a rather unusual watch from the brand. Though Breguet is often at the cutting edge of watchmaking technology, their watches still retain a very classic and elegant look – case in point: the Breguet Classique Chronometrie Ref. 7727. Unless you knew what you were looking at, you would have never guessed that the watch contains one of the most groundbreaking escapement designs in the entire history of watchmaking. However, the Marine Équation Marchante 5887 isn’t quite like that Classique Chronometrie Ref. 7727. It is quite loud – brash, even – but it is made with the same blend of modern materials and age-old watchmaking techniques that have come to define Breguet today.
在我看來， 寶璣航海系列時間等式5887腕表是品牌非常獨特的一隻腕表。 儘管寶璣製錶技術一直處於前沿，
For those not familiar with French, the Marine Équation Marchante 5887 has a running equation of time display. Équation Marchante roughly translates to "running equation." In plain speak, it displays the equation of time as a running hand in the form of a secondary minute hand that runs concurrently with the minute hand that shows civil time. The equation of time refers to the discrepancy between true solar time (based on the motion of the actual sun) and mean solar time (civil time) because of the elliptical nature of Earth’s orbit.
對於那些不熟悉法語的人來說， 這款航海5887有一個時間等式的顯示。 由兩枚獨立的分針同時顯示民用時間和實際時間。 時間等式是指由於地球軌道的橢圓性質， 真太陽時（實際太陽小時和分鐘）和平太陽時（對應民用或標準小時分鐘）之間的偏差。
In most equation of time watches, the equation of time is shown using a subsidiary dial marked from -16 to +14 minutes – the amount of deviation between true solar time and civil time. As you can see, to tell the true solar time will therefore require a bit of mental calculation, which makes a running equation of time display, such as the one found on the Marine Équation Marchante 5887, more elegant and intuitive.
在大多數時間等式表中， 時間等式用標記有-16到+14分鐘的小錶盤來顯示真太陽時和平太陽時之間的偏差量。 正如你所看到的， 為了顯示真太陽時將需要一些精確計算， 這使得時間顯示的運行方程（例如Marine Echanation Marchante 5887上的顯示）更加優雅和直觀。
The Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 is available in rose gold and platinum. The case is 43.9mm in diameter and measures about 11.5mm thick. It is an imposing case and quite different from other Breguet watches. The case middle features Breguet's signature fluted case band, but in place of more traditional lugs are angular and dynamic-looking integrated lugs. Perhaps because of the stronger styling, rated water resistance is 100m, which is quite unusual for a highly complicated watch.
這款5887有玫瑰金和鉑金兩種款式可供選擇。 錶殼直徑43.9毫米， 厚約11.5毫米。 這款表是具有重要意義的， 與寶璣其他腕表完全不一樣。錶殼中部裝有寶璣的標誌性凹槽錶帶，但是在原本非常傳統的表耳處則設計得棱角分明，動感十足。也許是因為造型風格更硬朗，防水深度為100米，這對於超複雜手錶來說是很少見的。
The rose gold model, the one we got to handle, features a silvered dial made of gold; while the platinum model comes with a blue dial, also made of gold. The dial is unmistakably Breguet, with an engine-turned dial and an engraved center portion, purposefully done to resemble waves and invoke feelings of the sea. The large gold Roman numeral hour markers sit on a ring of brushed silver and on the top of each marker is a small plot of luminescent material to improve legibility in poorly lit environments.
我們展示的這款是玫瑰金，具有金制銀色錶盤，而鉑金款則配備了藍色錶盤，同樣由金製成。 這款錶盤毫無疑問是標誌性的寶璣錶盤，透窗設計錶盤中心璣縷刻花裝飾，非常形象展示海洋波浪元素。 大號金質羅馬數字時標置於鍍銀的圓環上，並在頂部裝飾發光圓點的小時刻度，光線條件不好的環境總也能輕易讀時。
There are four central hands, which may seem complicated at first, but it is actually quite simple once you learn what they are for. The two large Breguet-style 18k gold hands with luminescent plots indicate the regular hours and minutes. The other large hand tipped with a circle that represents the sun is the secondary minute hand that shows the running equation of time. Finally, the smallest hand that is shaped like an anchor shows the date using a retrograde date display. The day and month are displayed using two apertures at 10:30 and 1:30 respectively.
錶盤有四根指針，乍一眼看上去可能會特別複雜，不過你要是搞清楚這些指針是用來幹嘛的就很簡單了。 兩個採用發光材質的18K金寶璣開口針就是正常的小時和分鐘顯示。另一個用一個圓圈表示太陽的指標則用於顯示時間等式。 最後，裝飾有錨型圖案的最小的逆跳指標就是日期顯示。日期和月份分別在10:30和1:30用兩個視窗顯示。
To the bottom right of the dial, we have a sapphire disc that provides a window to the tourbillon within. But look carefully and you will see that there is a component shaped like a kidney. This is the cam that controls the equation of time mechanism. Look closer still and you will see that the sapphire disc is engraved with the months of the year. Finally, at 7 o’clock there is an inconspicuous power reserve indicator that is easy to miss if you didn’t look carefully.
在錶盤的右下方，嵌有一塊藍寶石鏡面，就像為內部的陀飛輪安上一扇窗戶。但如果仔細看，你會看到有一個像人體的腎一樣的元件。 這是控制時間等式功能的凸輪。 仔細觀察，你會發現藍寶石鏡面上刻有一年的月份。 最後，7點還有一個不顯眼的動力儲備指示，如果你不仔細看，很容易就會漏掉。
The movement within is the self-winding Caliber 581DPE and it has a number of technical highlights. To begin, thanks to the use of silicon components in the escapement and an ultra-light titanium tourbillon cage, the tourbillon beats at 4Hz. Additionally, to allow owners to fully enjoy and admire the intricate decoration of the movement, Caliber 581DPE employs the use of a solid platinum peripheral rotor. Power reserve is 80 hours. The bridges of the movement have been painstakingly hand-engraved with the Royal Louis, though which one I’m not too sure. The name "Royal Louis" is typically the name given to the largest ship in the Royal French Navy.
機芯搭載自動上鏈機芯Calibre 581DPE，它有許多技術亮點。首先，得益於矽質擒縱輪和超輕鈦陀飛輪，陀飛輪才能以4Hz的速度跳動。 此外，為了讓佩戴者充分享受和欣賞機芯的複雜裝飾，Calibre 581DPE採用堅固的鉑金擺輪。動力儲備是80個小時。機芯的夾板橋精心雕刻有皇家路易士，雖然我不太確定。“皇家路易”這個名字通常是法國皇家海軍最大的船隻的名字。
All in all, I see the Marine Équation Marchante 5887 as a divisive watch from Breguet. Its technical achievements are noteworthy, but its styling will almost certainly not appeal to traditionalists. Still, one cannot fault them for trying, and I find the Marine Équation Marchante 5887 to be a refreshing break from Breguet’s more classically styled pieces. The Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 is priced at $215,000 in rose gold and $230,400 in platinum.
總而言之，航海時間等式5887腕表是從寶璣分化出來的一個獨特的表款。其技術成就是值得關注的，不過它的造型肯定不會吸引推崇傳統造型的表友。儘管如此，還是不要錯過這次嘗試的機會，而且5887也是出自寶璣更經典的系列作品，在這基礎之上做了一些突破性的嘗試。玫瑰金款售價為$215,000，鉑金款售價為$230,400。
文中部分圖片來源於網路
與寶璣其他腕表完全不一樣。錶殼中部裝有寶璣的標誌性凹槽錶帶，但是在原本非常傳統的表耳處則設計得棱角分明，動感十足。也許是因為造型風格更硬朗，防水深度為100米，這對於超複雜手錶來說是很少見的。
The rose gold model, the one we got to handle, features a silvered dial made of gold; while the platinum model comes with a blue dial, also made of gold. The dial is unmistakably Breguet, with an engine-turned dial and an engraved center portion, purposefully done to resemble waves and invoke feelings of the sea. The large gold Roman numeral hour markers sit on a ring of brushed silver and on the top of each marker is a small plot of luminescent material to improve legibility in poorly lit environments.
我們展示的這款是玫瑰金，具有金制銀色錶盤，而鉑金款則配備了藍色錶盤，同樣由金製成。 這款錶盤毫無疑問是標誌性的寶璣錶盤，透窗設計錶盤中心璣縷刻花裝飾，非常形象展示海洋波浪元素。 大號金質羅馬數字時標置於鍍銀的圓環上，並在頂部裝飾發光圓點的小時刻度，光線條件不好的環境總也能輕易讀時。
There are four central hands, which may seem complicated at first, but it is actually quite simple once you learn what they are for. The two large Breguet-style 18k gold hands with luminescent plots indicate the regular hours and minutes. The other large hand tipped with a circle that represents the sun is the secondary minute hand that shows the running equation of time. Finally, the smallest hand that is shaped like an anchor shows the date using a retrograde date display. The day and month are displayed using two apertures at 10:30 and 1:30 respectively.
錶盤有四根指針，乍一眼看上去可能會特別複雜，不過你要是搞清楚這些指針是用來幹嘛的就很簡單了。 兩個採用發光材質的18K金寶璣開口針就是正常的小時和分鐘顯示。另一個用一個圓圈表示太陽的指標則用於顯示時間等式。 最後，裝飾有錨型圖案的最小的逆跳指標就是日期顯示。日期和月份分別在10:30和1:30用兩個視窗顯示。
To the bottom right of the dial, we have a sapphire disc that provides a window to the tourbillon within. But look carefully and you will see that there is a component shaped like a kidney. This is the cam that controls the equation of time mechanism. Look closer still and you will see that the sapphire disc is engraved with the months of the year. Finally, at 7 o’clock there is an inconspicuous power reserve indicator that is easy to miss if you didn’t look carefully.
在錶盤的右下方，嵌有一塊藍寶石鏡面，就像為內部的陀飛輪安上一扇窗戶。但如果仔細看，你會看到有一個像人體的腎一樣的元件。 這是控制時間等式功能的凸輪。 仔細觀察，你會發現藍寶石鏡面上刻有一年的月份。 最後，7點還有一個不顯眼的動力儲備指示，如果你不仔細看，很容易就會漏掉。
The movement within is the self-winding Caliber 581DPE and it has a number of technical highlights. To begin, thanks to the use of silicon components in the escapement and an ultra-light titanium tourbillon cage, the tourbillon beats at 4Hz. Additionally, to allow owners to fully enjoy and admire the intricate decoration of the movement, Caliber 581DPE employs the use of a solid platinum peripheral rotor. Power reserve is 80 hours. The bridges of the movement have been painstakingly hand-engraved with the Royal Louis, though which one I’m not too sure. The name "Royal Louis" is typically the name given to the largest ship in the Royal French Navy.
機芯搭載自動上鏈機芯Calibre 581DPE，它有許多技術亮點。首先，得益於矽質擒縱輪和超輕鈦陀飛輪，陀飛輪才能以4Hz的速度跳動。 此外，為了讓佩戴者充分享受和欣賞機芯的複雜裝飾，Calibre 581DPE採用堅固的鉑金擺輪。動力儲備是80個小時。機芯的夾板橋精心雕刻有皇家路易士，雖然我不太確定。“皇家路易”這個名字通常是法國皇家海軍最大的船隻的名字。
All in all, I see the Marine Équation Marchante 5887 as a divisive watch from Breguet. Its technical achievements are noteworthy, but its styling will almost certainly not appeal to traditionalists. Still, one cannot fault them for trying, and I find the Marine Équation Marchante 5887 to be a refreshing break from Breguet’s more classically styled pieces. The Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 is priced at $215,000 in rose gold and $230,400 in platinum.
總而言之，航海時間等式5887腕表是從寶璣分化出來的一個獨特的表款。其技術成就是值得關注的，不過它的造型肯定不會吸引推崇傳統造型的表友。儘管如此，還是不要錯過這次嘗試的機會，而且5887也是出自寶璣更經典的系列作品，在這基礎之上做了一些突破性的嘗試。玫瑰金款售價為$215,000，鉑金款售價為$230,400。
文中部分圖片來源於網路